Hosiery and method of making



Dec. 24, 1935. N. SCHWARTZ HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 1, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR.

NA THAN SCH WARTZ ATTORNEY.

Dec. 24, 1935. SCHWARTZ 2,025,358

HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 1, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 /2 i l l //6 0 H10 Q 3-; W l w \l l 5 ll I 4, il

2 FIG 4 5 [Ir/6' 5 INVENTOR.

NATHAN SCHWARTZ ATTORNEY.

Dec. 24, 1935. N. SCHWARTZ 2,025,358

HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 1, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 w-a lrc 5 INVENTOR. F76 6 N1? 7"H14 N 5 CH WAR 72 I 1; I I I ATTORNEY.

Dec. 24, 1935. ss z 2,025,358

A TTORNE Y.

Patented Dec. 24, 1935 UNITED STATES I PATENT OFFICE SAIME Nathan Schwartz, Upper Darby, Pa. Application May 1, 1933, Serial No. 668,827

Claims.

This invention relates to full fashioned hosiery and has for its object the production of an improved article of this class and the provision of a novel method of making the same.

Under the practice now usually followed in the making of full fashioned hosiery two distinct operations must be performed in the joining of the long, vertical or selvage edges of the knitted fabric. One of these steps is the sewing or seaming operation and the other is the heel tab looping operation. As is well known in the artthe looping operation is performed in joining the lower free edges of the heel tabs the remaining long, vertical or selvage edge portions of the stocking being joined together by stitching. It is obvious that since the heel tab edges being looped together are int rmediate the portions being sewed together the operator must stop the sewing operation to skip tlie looped portion thereby slowing down production. It is an object of this invention to produce a full fashioned stocking the long, vertical or selvage edges of which are joined together by a line of stitching for the entire length of the stocking, that is, from welt top to toe.

Another object of this invention is to provide a method for making a full fashioned stocking which has a selvage edge for the entire length of the stocking.

Another object of this invention is to produce a piece of knitted fabric, used as a unit to make a full fashioned stocking, which has a selvage edge for the entire long or generally vertical edge of the stocking.

Another object of this invention is to provide a method for making a fabric which is to be used as a unit in the making of a full fashioned stocking, which has a selvage edge for the entire long or vertical edge of the fabric.

Further, the heel portion of full fashioned hosiery has been found objectionable because of the fact that it is not sufficiently rounded to conform with the curvature of the foot heel. It is an object of this invention to produce a full fashioned stocking the heel portion of which is rounded to conform with the curvature of the foot heel.

Another object of this invention is to provide a novel method for producing the heel portion of a full fashioned stocking.

Another object of my invention is to produce a full fashioned stocking the heel portion of which is rounded to conform with the curvature of the foot heel and the edges of which are joined together by stitching for the entire length of the stocking. I

Another object of my invention is to provide a novel method of making a full fashioned stocking the heel portion of which is rounded to conform with the. curvature of the foot heel and the edges of which are joined together by stitching for the entire length of the stocking.

Another object of my invention is to provide a novel method of making a full fashioned stock- 10 ing the heel portion of which is rounded to conform with the curvature of the foot heel and which is seamed for the entire length of the stocking along selvage edges.

Another object of this invention is to produce a piece of knitted fabric, used as a unit in the production of a full fashioned stocking, wherein that portion which will form the heel of the said stocking is so formed and constituted that the said heel of the stocking will be rounded in 20 substantial conformity with the contour of the foot heel and to provide a method for making the same.

The above objects are all attained by the following methods and in the structures more particularly described in the following specifications and the drawings which form a part thereof.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a side view of a stocking made by my novel method and havin my novel structure incorporated therein. The general direction taken by the wales in the foot portion about the heel is shown schematically by line shading. The line of stitching is to be. considered as being along the rear edge of the stocking and as running from the welt top to 35 the toe and is here schematically designated by the short lines at right angles to the said edge. Fashioning points in the heel are designated by the short diagonal line crossing the wales.

Figure 2 is an enlarged side view showing the 40 heel portion of my novel stocking. The general direction taken by the wales is shown schematically by line shading. Fashioning points are schematically designated by a short diagonal line crossing the wale. 45

Figure 3 is a schematic top view of the lower leg and heel tab portions of the knitted fabric immediately after the knitting of the heel tabs has been completed. The general direction taken by the wales is schematically shown by line shad- 50 ing. The ravelling tabs have been left unshaded for the purpose of clearness. Fashioning marks are schematically designated by the short line crossing the wales.

Figure 4 is a schematic top view of the portion 55 shown in Figure 3 in position upon the topping bar. The topping bar is schematically designated by a straight line.. The general direction taken by the wales is schematically shown by line shading. The ravelling tabs have been left unshaded for the purpose of clearness. Fashioning marks are schematically designated by the short lines crossing the wales.

Figure 5 is that portion of the stocking shown in Figure 2 but on a somewhat smaller scale wherein what was the topping line in the course of the manufacture of the stocking is illustrated by a dot and dash line. Fashioning marks are illustrated in the same manner as in Figure 2.

Figure 6 is an enlarged schematic top view of the one of the heel tabs shown in Figure 3. The wales and courses are schematically shown by line shading. Superimposed loops, each group of which also represent an area where a fashioning mark appears, are schematically designated by heavyblack dots. This view schematically illustrates the appearance of the wales and courses in the tab immediately after the fashioning operation has been completed in any particular course. 7

Figure 7 is an enlarged view of a fragment of the fashioned portion of my novel heel tab. The position occupied by the loops involved in the fashioning operation before the fashioning operation is schematically shown by the dot and dash lines while the position occupied, by the said loops immediately after the fashioning operation is shown schematically by the diagonal full lines. Superimposed loops, each group of which also represent an area where-a fashioning mark appears, are schematically illustrated by heavy black dots. This view illustrates the fashioning step performed by the machine in the knitting of my novel heel tabs.

Figure 8 is a top view of the stocking blank or the fabric which is used as a unit to make my novel full fashioned stocking. What was the topping line in the course of the manufacture of the stocking blank is illustrated by a dot and dash line. Because it is desired to show both the entire blank and my novel features in as large a scale as possible in one view, portions of the fabric in the leg and foot sections of the blank have been broken away. The portions broken away are parts of the stocking blank which are formed inthe manner well known in the art.

Referring more particularly to the drawings wherein similar reference numbers and reference letters denote similar parts reference numeral I denotes a full fashioned stocking which is made up of the leg portion 2 and the foot portion I joined together along the topping line 4. The

long or vertical edges 5 of the stocking I are joined together for the entire length of thestocking, that is from the welt top I3 to the toe I4, by the line ofstitching 6. The heel portion I of the stocking I is made up of the two heel tabs 8 fashioned along the line I I with the result that the otherwise vertically extending wales are bent as shown. The tab wales fall into two distinct groups 9 and Ill. The wales of the wale group 9 are substantially vertical while the wales of the wale group I 0 have a distinct curvature as shown. This curvature of the wales of the wale group Ill is increased by the inclusion of the portion B0 of the heel tab 8 in the topping line as will hereinafter be more particularly set forth. .The wales of the wale group I2 extend in the groups Iflshall lie at an angle more or less obtuse with respect to the inner edge of its heel tab. When the stocking is completed this arrangement will cause a'fullness of the fabric at the points.C and C where the narrowing line meets 15 the inner line of the tabs. I

I make my novel stocking as follows upon the ordinary well known full fashioned hosiery knitting machines, such as, for instance, the machine manufactured and sold by the Textile Machine 20 Works, of Reading, Pennsylvania, in the following manner: v

' I knit the leg portion of the stocking, including the ravel tab I8, in the manner now well known in the art until I come to the heel tabs 8 (see Figures-3 and 6). Then I proceed with the knitting of the heel tab in the manner well known in the art until a certain portion thereof (illustrated by the length a in Figure 6) has been completed. Then, in the course, r-l immedi ately succeeding this point, I begin to fashion the tab by transferring the loops in a group of wales 22 (illustrated by the dot and dash vertical lines in Figure 7) a certain number of wales (illustrated by the wales 0" in Figures 6 and 7) inwardly, causing them to assume the position schematically shown by the diagonal lines in Figures 6 and 7. (As is well known in the art,'such an operation will among other things result in the elimination of two wales and in the super- 40 position of certain loops upon each other. In the disclosure-of Figures 6 and .7 the superimposed loops are designated by the heavy black dots and the wales eliminated are the wales w--I and 10-2. The structure which results at the point where the loops are superimposed is well known in the art and commonly designated as a fashion mark. For this reason it is only schematically illustrated in the drawings which form a part hereof. The fashioning operation herein referred to as an operation is in and of itself well known in the art and for that reason is not further described here.) Then I knit two more plain courses 1-2 and r3 and repeat the fashioning operation above described in the second course, that is rl, using the loop in the outside wale, w-l, as a starting point and transferring the group b of loops the same number of wales c inwardly as before. ,This eliminates the wales 10-3 and w.4. I then knit two more courses r-l and r! and repeat the fashioning operation in the second course that is r! thus eliminating the wales 10-5 and 10-4. I then continue to repeat the above described operation of knitting two courses and fashioning in the sec- 0nd 'cours'euntil I reach the course along the line BC where after the fashioning operation is completed in said course the number of wales remaining are equal to the number of loops b used as a unit in the fashioning operation. I now knit the ravel tabs I! thus completing the leg portion of the knitted fabric. The general appearance of the lower portion including the heel tabs of the fabric which will form the leg portion 1 of my novel stocking when completed is 15 schematically shown in Figure 3. (It is hotbelieved necessary to show the remaining or upper portion of this fabric since it does, not differ from the prior art.) It is to be noted thatthc edges I of the completed leg portion of the fabric is a selvage edge for its entire length up to and including the point B.

I now take the completed fabric and mount the same upon the topping bar T in the manner shown in Figure 4 so that the free loops of the edges BC and B'C' are placed upon the topping bar and included in the topping operation in addition to the edges CD, DD,v and D'C'. (It' is to be noted that when in position upon the topping bar the edges BC, CD, DOD, DC', and U8 form a substantially straight line.) This step diifers from the prior art in the inclusion of the edges BC and B'C' in the topping operation.

I now unravel the tabs l8 and i6 and in the manner well known in the art proceed with and finish the knitting of that portion of the fabric which is to constitute the foot portion 3 of the completed stocking. (The completion of the foot portion completes the knitting of the fabric which forms the stocking. It is to be noted that in my fabric the entire long or vertical edge of the stocking fabric from the welt top it to the edge is a selvage toe.) I now complete thestocking by finishing the toe portion ll thereof by looping and joining together the long, vertical or selvage edges thereof for its entire length, that is, from the welt top i3 to the toe N, by seaming. The operation of looping at the toe tip is one well known in the art and does not in and of itself constitute a part of my invention and for that reason will not be here further described. The seaming operation as performed by me differs from that now in use only in the fact-'Tthat it is continuous, no stops of any kind being necessary since the long, vertical or selvage edges are joined together by sewing for the entire length of the stocking.

The edges BC and F0, forming the ends of the groups of wales Ill, stand at an obtuse angle to the inner selvage edges of the tabs. When the fabric is placed on the transfer-bar the loops on the lines BC and BC will be brought into line with the inner edges of .the .tabs. This obliterates the obtuse angles heretofore described, but gathers the wales together at the points CC (Fig. 4), and creates a fullnessat these points. This fullness enables the heel of the stocking to be expanded on the foot so' as to fit more perfectly the heel of the wearer. This feature is of great importance.

It is to be noted that in the particular stocking herein illustrated I begin the heel tab fashioning operation a distance equal to about twothirds of the completed tab. and fashion for a distance equal to about one-third of the completed tab. It is further to be noted that in the said stocking the number of loops in the group b being fashioned or transferred is sixteen and that the number of wales c which these loops are displaced inwardly is two (2), These, however, are not to be considered as fixed limits but merely as illustrative figures since many changes may be made in them without departing from the spirit of my invention whichconsists in forming a full fashioned stocking with a rounded heel portion which substantilly conforms in contour with the'foot heel; it consists further in producing a full fashioned stocking having a seamed or sewed edge for its entire length, that is, from welt-top to oe tin: it msisi's further in pro'ducing a piece of knitted fabric which is used as a unit in the production of a full fashioned stocking, the long. or generally vertical edges of which are selvage edges from welt top to toe edge; it consists further in producing a piece of knitted 5 fabric which is used as a unit in the production of a full fashioned stocking which is so formed and constituted in that portion thereof which is to constitute the heel portion ,of the completed stocking that the said heel portion will be curved to conform substantially with the contour of the foot heel; it consists further in providing a novel method for producing a full fashioned stocking the heel portion of which substantially conforms in outline with the foot heel; it consists further in providing a method for producing a full fashioned stocking, the long or vertical edges of which are seamed together for the entire length of the stocking; it consists further in providing a method for producing a piece of fabric which is used as a unit in the production of a full fashioned stocking the said fabric being so constituted in that portion thereof which is to form the heel part of the completed stocking that the said heel part of the stocking will curve and conform substantially in outline with the foot heel; it consists further in providing a method for producing a piece of knitted fabric which is used as a unit in the production of a full fashioned stocking wherein the. vertical or long edges are selvage edges.

The changes which may be made in the construction herein shown may consist in the making of a piece of fabric and a full fashioned stocking therefrom in which some but not all of my inventive concepts hereinabove enumerated may be incorporated. These changes may consist further in the variation of the point in the length of the heel tab at which the fashioning operation begins; or it may consist in the variation of the number of loops which constitutes any group b of loops being transferred or fashioned: or it may consist in the variation of the number of wales c in which the group of loops being fashioned are displaced: or it may consist in the changing of the particular courses in which the fashioning operation takes place.

In any particular case it is only necessary for the maker of the stocking to decide the point A along the heel tab 8 at which .he will begin his fashioning operations and the number of loops which he will include in the group b being displaced and the number of wales c in which he will displace or transfer the said loops inwardly. With these points fixed and the length of the heel tab being' known, the number of courses over which the fashioning operation will take place can readily be determined. This being known, the operator can then determine in which particular course the fashioning operation will take place, that is, whether in every course, in every other course, in every third course, etc. It is within the skill of any knitter to set the machine so that it will perform the fashioning operations necessary after it has been decided where the fashioning operation is to begin, the number of loops to be included in the group b and the number of wales c in which the said loops are to be transferred or displaced inwardly; and the courses in which the said fashioning operation 0 will be repeated. Further, in any particular case a person can fix for himself which particular element, or elements of those herein enumeratedthat is, the point at which the fashioning is to begin, the number of loops in the group b, the

number of wales e in which the said loops are displaced inwardly, the courses in which the fashioning is to take place-he desires to make constant and then adjust the other factors accordingly. Further, it is not necessary in any particular case to keep constant the number of loops in the group b being transferred, the number of wales c which the said loops are displaced inwardly and the course in which the fashioning operation takes place. Any one or all of these elements may be varied in the course of knitting my novel heel tab and it is obvious that in the particular tab so made the number of loops I) being fashioned in any particular course, the number of wales c which each of the loops in any particular group of loops b is displaced inwardly in any particular course, and the succession of courses in which the transfer is made will vary throughout the tab.

In addition to the changes herein enumerated certain other changes will suggest themselves to those skilled in the art in the light of my disclosure and for that reason it is my desire that the claims which are hereunto appended for the purpose of defining my invention be limited only by the prior art.

What I claim is:

1. The method of making a piece of knitted fabric,-consisting of a leg portion having heel tabs and having attached thereto a foot portion,which is to be used as a unit to form a full fashioned stocking, consisting of knitting the said leg portion and the heel tabs on a full fashioned knitting machine and, in the knitting of the said heel tabs, fashioning the same by inward transfer until the line of narrowing marks substantially meets the inner edge of each of the said tabs thereby forming three free edges for each of the said tabs; placing the lower edge of each of the said tabs, the inner edge of each of the said tabs and the edge of the leg portion between the said inner edges of the said tabs upon a topping bar: topping the said edges upon a footer; and then knitting that portion of the fabric which is to constitute the foot portion of the stocking.

2. The method of making a full fashioned stocking which consists in knitting the leg portion thereof, including the heel tabs, and in the course of the knitting of the said heel tabs fash-' ioning the same by inward transfer until the line of narrowing marks substantially meets the inneredge of each of the said heel tabs; topping the lower edge of each of the said tabs, the inner edge of each of the said tabs and the end of the leg portion intermediate the said inner edges of the tabs upon a footer; knitting the foot portion of the said fabric; looping the toe ends of the said fabric; and Joining together the long edges of the said fabric by stitching.

3.The method of making afull fashioned stocking which consists of knitting the leg portion thereof including the heel tabs, and in the course of the knitting of the said heel tabs fashioning the outer wales by inward transfer.

thereof until the line of narrowing marks substantially meets the inneredge of the heel tabs and the ends of the transferred wales form a line which stands at an angle to the inner edge of its heel tab; topping the lower edge of the leg portion, the inner edges of the tabs. and the lower angular ends of the tabs, thereby gathering the wales to produce a fullness where the ends of the fashioned portions of the heel tabs Join the inner edges of their respective tabs and knitting the foot to the top. thereby producing a full fashioned stocking blank with a fullness at each of the two points where the fashioned portions of the heel tabs join the inner edges of their respective tabs.

4. A full fashioned stocking blank comprising a main body terminating in two heel tabs each having an inner and an outerselvage, each heel tab comprising two groups of wales, an inner group of somewhat more than half the wales and an outer group of somewhat less than half the wales, the inner group of each tab being narrowed inwardly over a plurality of courses until the inner wale of the outer group meets the selvage of the inner group; and a foot attached to the main body along the line of the instep and the inner selvage edges of the heel tabs and the terminal courses of the outer groups of wales on a single course of the foot portion.

5. A full fashioned stocking comprising a main body terminating in two heel tabs each having an inner and an outer selvage, each heel tab comprising two groups of wales, an inner group of somewhat more than half the wales and an outer group of somewhat less than half the wales, the inner group of each tab being narrowed inwardly over a plurality of coursa until the inner wale of the outer group meets the selvage of the inner group; a foot attached to the main body along the line of the instep and the inner selvage edges of the tabs and the terminal courses of the outer groups of wala on a single course of the foot portion; the edges of the body and foot being Joined together by a continuous seam from. top to toe.

NATHAN SCHWARTZ. I 

